Shire Lodge

Crouching low against the shire river, this plastic-flower-accented Shire lodge has stood '70s couches in reception and feels as though it was built for an event that never happened. It's over 50 large, cool and clean rooms are comfortable enough, with dated bathrooms, flat-screen TVs, tiled floors, tea and coffee.

With seating in breezy riverside garden pavilions, the restaurant serves Indian and Chinese dishes, steaks, chambo, local specialities and numerous veggie options. On Sunday, choose between the lunch buffet and the à la carte menu – and listen out for snorting hippos.

To find the lodge, cross the bridge heading east (towards Zomba) and take the first dirt road on the left. It's about 500m from the turnoff.